raw food raw talk II

I’m inviting you all into my home, specifically my kitchen, so you can see what it actually looks like to make a raw meal for your dog. It’s pretty much like a regular cooking demonstration, sans stove and wine!

Raw feeding is referred to as biologically appropriate or species specific. Giving your dog the food their body was made to digest.

All of my dogs meals are varied. We use a variety of meats, a variety of bones, a variety of body parts, variety of organs, and a variety of fruit and vegetables. Did I say variety? YES! That is singly, in my opinion, what is most important in a raw diet, any diet for that matter.

Rabbit, lamb, beef, fish (whole sardines, mackerel, not pacific raw salmon, that can be dangerous to dogs), quail, pheasant, chicken, turkey, elk, bison, etc.

Kale, chard, collard greens, yam, blue berries, raspberries, parsley, dandelion greens, milk thistle, etc. (If you don’t know the source of your plant products, please blanch in boiling water for 15-30 seconds, and then put in grinder)

This video just shows ONE lunch option.

  • turkey parts – breast, back, neck, organs, ground
  • beef – muscle, kidney, heart, liver
  • tripe
  • sweet potato, blue berries

My proportions are generally +/-

  • 50% meat
  • 30% meat and crushed bone
  • 10-15% organ/offal
  • 5-10% fruit/veggie

If you are just getting started on a species specific diet, raw feeding, my suggestion is to use a commercial raw product to start (a bit more expensive but consider it part of your education), and read, read, read. Educate yourself, become familiar, ask questions to those that are knowledgeable with raw feeding, and when you are ready to make your own, start small. Make small batches, become familiar with buying your own product, look for good resources locally, and BREATHE!

Our other videos on carcass feeding, multiple dog household and food, raw food

Raw Carcass Feeding

Raw Feeding Time – Multiple Dog Household

Multiple dog household and food – keeping the peace

Happy Feeding! Please make sure to check out our other articles on raw feeding and nutrition! ~ Nancy

canine vaccines – good until they’re not

Franny is resting right now, the first deep restorative sleep she has had in almost three days…

I try to make educated and thoughtful decisions for my dogs health and well being. The older I get the more I read, listen, and watch. I look at it this way, if I gather information from all sides, I can hopefully make choices that will be healthy and as safe as possible. There are never guarantees, of which I am painfully aware. I am not one to buy into guilt, propaganda, or trends. You can stick any good looking movie star on a commercial touting the benefits of ‘this drug’ or ‘that vaccine’, and it does nothing for me, in fact it’s usually my cue to go get a glass of wine!

I simply like the cards stacked in my favor. And truthfully the more you know the more you start to trust your feelings. Feelings are always there, trusting them is something totally different. Information needs to be taken thoughtfully, not at face value. Always question. Sometimes what you are learning is spot on, other times it needs to be taken with a pinch of salt, and a lot of the times with a whole bucket of salt.

You see …

I am a minimalist when it comes to immunizations. I want to support my dogs socially, emotionally, physically and nutritionally so they can take care of themselves. Ten years ago I went to single cell shots for my puppies, parvo and distemper only. And once every three year rabies. Ocean had titers done almost four years ago and she carries antibodies for a plethora of things. Her immune system rocks! My other three dogs have been healthy as well. I work with veterinarians that support my choices. They know I have done my research,  and they know that I’m intentional with their health care choices. And they are well prepared for my questions, and almost always, we have great discussions.

Franny and Ocean were due for their every three year rabies. They are both seniors, and I was debating whether I would do titers or give them, what for sure would be, their last rabies vaccine. I called our Montana state Veterinarian in Helena to talk about the legalities of a titers certificate, and what the state would honor, and what our city and county regulations were. You see I have four dogs and live in the city limits. I am required to not only register my dogs, but to also have a kennel license. In order for this to happen they have to be current with their rabies vaccine.

Turns out our city does not recognize titers as a legal certificate. So I spoke with our Deputy Chief who said he would sign a form so I could get my city license tags because my dogs were seniors, but it would not be legally binding should there be an altercation or a rabies quarantine in our county. If there were to be an altercation and they did not have a current rabies certificate, they would be impounded for 10 days. If during impound there was a question about their health, they would be checked for the rabies disease. This is where it gets ugly. If you are in the field you know how this is done, if you are not, well they euthanize your dog, cut off their head, and send it to a lab where they test the brain matter for the rabies disease. So catch-22, pros and cons, safety and disease control, travel and back country hiking. What would be the best choice for me, my dogs and our family?

From Dr. Schultz, THE leading expert on immunology and vaccinations – “We’re trying to get states to recognize rabies titers (or antibodies to determine if the pets remain protected by their previous vaccine) even at three years in lieu of re vaccination,” says Schultz. “Titers are a reliable determination. But state regulators don’t always ask vaccine experts, and may themselves not be veterinarians. What’s more, laws vary from state to state and even within states. There’s no standardization.” Dr. Schultz, who participated in the 2011 American Animal Hospital Association Canine Vaccine Guidelines, absolutely understands and agrees with laws to vaccinate pets for rabies. However, he also believes allowing for exceptions makes common sense, as well as the use of titers.

I had a month to really sit on the information and also weigh it against the very real dangers of vaccinating and side effects. The rabies vaccine has the highest rate of side effects out of all of the canine vaccines.

  • Side effects typically occur within two to three weeks after vaccination. However, side effects can appear up to 45 days after vaccination. Immediate side effects after vaccinating are fairly common.
  • Appearing within hours of vaccination include vomiting, lethargy, fever, loss of consciousness, and even death (please note these are fairly common).
  • It has been reported that some dogs have been known to become aggressive, experience separation anxiety, and show signs of obsessive compulsive disorder due to the rabies vaccination.
  • The most commonly reported side effect of the rabies vaccine is a sudden occurrence of epilepsy and seizures. Because of the nature of rabies, the vaccine often attacks the nervous system, causing muscle weakness or brain and spinal issues similar to rabies itself.
  • Other reported side effects include autoimmune diseases, allergies, skin problems, digestive disorders, eating inappropriate materials like paper, and fibrocarcinomas (a type of cancer at the injection site).

So my Veterinarian came over to my home, we decided together that vaccinating was in the best interest of my dogs because of our life style in the back country, and the fact that the city didn’t have anything in place to honor a titers certificate as a legal document. He gave them a well check and felt they were healthy and could handle this last vaccine.

Ocean lost her appetite and didn’t eat for two days. Twelve days after the vaccine, Franny either stroked or had a seizure. She started to pace and walk in big circles. Her agitation and being disoriented were heart breaking. Her eyes widened and you could see the whites all the way around, and it was evident she wasn’t seeing correctly. She became anxious and sound alert as she wasn’t able to see and/or focus, we couldn’t tell. Her breathing became labored, she wasn’t able to settle for more than a few minutes. She started to bump into furniture, and stumbled near the stairs. We put her harness on and took her into the yard and walked around. Fresh air, cool and quiet. She settled for a bit. We repeated this throughout the night.

The next day she wanted to be curled up next to us, and if we moved she moved with us. Her eyes still had no real ability to focus, and she was still anxious with any sound as she couldn’t place where it was coming from. One eye started to turn blue in the pupil area. We are not seeing that progress!

She started to eat and drink well after two days, she wanted to be outside and walking around, and she had some play to her. She didn’t seem quite as agitated, but she still had eyes that were not focusing correctly. She had to look at us sideways in order to find us.

I spoke with my Veterinarian yesterday and went over all of what we were seeing. It is recommended that you do this so it can be reported to the pharmaceutical company. The pharmaceutical company told my veterinarian that unless I did a cat scan, MRI, and blood work, they could not list it as a side effect for that batch. My veterinarian being who he is asked, “how many owners could afford that, why doesn’t your company pony up and pay for this?” The response was, “not many, that is why we don’t have many side effects we consider viable or recorded”. Ouch.

“There’s absolutely no dependable way to prevent these reactions in some dogs,” Dr. Schultz says.

Since Franny is showing improvement a bit everyday we are on observation mode. My veterinarian has left the door open if we want to do blood work. He has been the calm in this storm for us.

I have resolved to contact our city and work at having the ordinances and regulations changed so that titers are a legal document. The information is there, the research is there. If for no other reason, this is in Franny’s honor, she deserves this from me.

To health and well being, and safer vaccinations – Nancy

home veterinary visits ROCK!

Van Morrison playing, cinnamon rolls in the oven, yummy pineapple and pomegranate fruit salad on the table, hot black coffee, a clean floor, and dogs exercised. Now ready for the veterinarian to arrive! Home visits rock!

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Stress free for humans and dogs, and a lovely way to visit and ask questions. As my dogs age I am trying to make choices that will be as stress free as possible, but also balance that with aging health care needs. My two senior girls have the normal lumps and bumps, some achy joints here and there, good teeth but a few that need to be monitored for sure. The boys just need well checks, and frankly $eeker loves to be messed with!

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One of my big concerns this time around was their rabies vaccines. I’m very careful to not over vaccinate, but I also understand the real risks with rabies. We travel, we hike in the back country, and we’re out and about all of the time. I wanted a good check up, but also wanted to discuss their ages, health, and potential risks with a rabies vaccine at their age. They were due, and it’s the only vaccine I give my dogs throughout their lives. They get a single cell parvo and distemper as puppies, and then every three years a rabies vaccine. We support our dogs socially, emotionally, physically and nutritionally, and I will say they are pretty damn healthy!

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I did my pre veterinary visit research as always. I like to discuss options, but I don’t want to waste my time or my Veterinarians time being uninformed. So before this visit I called the State Veterinarians office to find out my options as far as titers, vaccines, age, and health. What was legal, what was recommended, what was possible. I called our City’s Deputy Chief to find out what my options were for licensing based off of titers should that be the route we take. I read various articles with benefits vs risks of vaccinating a senior dog. And I should note, I don’t use Veterinarians (at least not twice!) that don’t like to talk with me, discuss options, or explain something that is completely out of my scope of knowledge. My dogs, their skills and knowledge, equal exchange in a discussion.

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I use about five different veterinarians for various specialties. Chiropractic work, rehabilitation, well checks, etc. I balance my dogs care.

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Dr. Raines has been one of the veterinarians we use with our dogs over the years. He is THE first Veterinarian my puppies see. He makes sure that they LOVE coming to see him. On the floor, petting, loving up, kind hands, and always something great to say about my new puppies. As my dogs age, he will be looking after their health and well being with me. He knows all about life with senior dogs, two of his, when I first met him, were 18 and 18.5 years old, and still had a great quality of life.

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When Dr. Raines and his assistant Mandy walked up to the front door, they were greeted by happy barks, jumping up to say hi, twirling, and wagging tails. It was a love fest of sorts and mutual. $eeker fell desperately in love with Mandy. It makes me smile every time to witness this type of mutual love, and kindness. And how lovely for a medical well check visit to start this way.

Everyone was examined, lots of cool conversations, and the bonus was that my husband was home. This was his first veterinary experience like this and he loved it. His voice was heard, he got to watch and learn, and he loved that our senior girls were not stressed.

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$eeker kept easing his way onto the pillow in hopes Mandy would massage him again. Franny loves being touched so her examine was more like a Spa Day for her. Story oddly enough didn’t want to be messed with too much, I’ll have to do even more handling work before the next visit. Ocean and Franny, from the mouth of Dr. Raines, are in awesome health, Granny Rock Stars!

And I had them in their new holiday attire too!

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My only complaint, while they had coffee and tea while we were all settling in, they ate nothing! Next time, I will simply hand them a plate of yummy food. Part of people coming to my house is me being able to feed them, that is my simple pleasure!

Cheers to stress free veterinary visits, cheers to healthy dogs!

Nancy

raw food, raw talk

I’m an advocate of optimal nutrition for dogs. Because I am a trainer and work with dogs, hands on, everyday, I can tell you that nutrition directly effects behavior.

When I have to peel a dog off of my head, and then find out they are on some kibble that is high in sugars and simple carbohydrates, well we tend to talk about nutrition and appropriate food for a dog before we start working on behaviors.

You can’t work with an emotionally unstable animal, that has to be balanced first. Emotional stability has many components, nutrition is one of them.

Try eating corn dogs and cotton candy for six weeks straight, and then let’s talk about how you feel. Let’s talk about how others enjoy being around you. Let’s talk about your attitude in general. Lets talk about your ability to focus and concentrate. My guess is, our conversation won’t be roses. Just a hunch.

Some commercial kibbles are worth using, most commercial kibbles have just about the nutritional level of corn dogs and cotton candy, some are even worse. You really have to read, stay current, and ask questions. About eight months ago I posted FOOD, a blog post with links, Q & A, information, and how to read a dog food label. If you haven’t read that check it out!

I will say that it isn’t easy. For example, I am a marketing companies dream consumer! I like nice packaging, I like new and progressive, and I love to read nice good things on the label. Oh, raspberries and blueberries! I’m like a moth to a flame! Commercial dog food companies have some of the best marketing and advertising firms behind them. Their strategies are awesome, and as a business person I applaud them. BUT, it does not mean what they are selling is appropriate for your dog, or even mildly healthy.

I started to feed a raw diet about 10 years ago. We started with commercial raw, then moved to carcass feeding and some commercial raw. Now we do a true rotation diet. Carcass and raw meaty bones in the AM, some mixed ground meat with offal, organ meats, and a little veggie in the PM. We use Petcurean kibble on busy days or when traveling and on the road.

I have two videos that have been on my YouTube channel for awhile, and have been helpful to other raw feeders or people just curious on what it looks like.

Multiple Dog Household and Feeding -

Carcass Raw Feeding – unplugged – cornish hens

What takes most people by surprise is HOW LONG it takes to feed. If you’re use to watching a dog gulp down a bowl of kibble in seconds, then raw feeding might seem like an eternity. A dog has to negotiate the carcass part, and work through the meat, fat, tendons, cartilage, and bone. During this process they work all of their teeth for their intended purpose. It’s slow and beautiful to watch. Raw Meaty Bones is a book worth reading!

Today’s video is segments from our feeding this morning. The video is only seven something minutes long, but the bone time was about one and a half hours long.

You’ll see the progression of; working on the meat, ligaments, and bones, then switching bones, milling about politely and calmly, rolling on the bones, a bit of play, and at the end, Story’s ritual of ‘dig a nice hole and let the bone belly rest!’. Chewing and working on a bone is a lot of work, when my dogs are done they are panting, and stretching and looking for a place to crash. My dogs are still sleeping, and Franny, bless her Grandma heart, is happily snoring away.

Ocean takes the longest. She’s retrieved thousands, if not millions of toys and sticks. Over 10.5 years it’s taken a toll,and her teeth are not great. They are filed down quite a bit, and I am sure sensitive to some extent. I give her a space where she can work at her own pace without the others pushing in.

Franny, $eeker, and Story will politely mill about once they have finished and just check out the other bones. They are always polite, and there is safety in that. All have nice teeth for their ages!

Whether it’s my husband or myself that feeds in the AM, we are always present, always monitoring, and observing. It’s a nice way to relax and observe the dogs, it is not however our time to nap, check out, or read. Safety first and foremost.

Nancy, happy feeding!

preparing you and your dog for a health care visit

It’s a reality in your dogs life time that they will have to visit a health care professional, how often is usually determined by a combination of a dogs over all health and genetics, and the owners comfort level. Dogs that seem to lack the ‘self preservation gene’ tend to see a health care professional more often, just saying!

As far as choices, times are a changin’. Some dog owners are on the hyper visit plan, and see the veterinarian three to four times per year, even if there is nothing presenting. While other dog owners opt for the, I’ll call you if we need you, once every three year plan. Some dog owners have become very well educated with their choices for their dogs health care and partner with a health care professional, working together. And some owners choose a completely alternative route, using acupuncturists, massage therapist, PEMF clinicians, nutritionists, etc. Whether an owner wants an evidence based traditional experience, or a more naturopathic/holistic route to their dogs health care, handling is handling, and it’s generally outside of the scope of everyday activities for you and your dog.

Bottom line, preparation is the best prevention. Here are some tips to hopefully make your health care visits as stress free as possible, for you and your dog.

Tips -

  1. Know Something About Dogs – Start basic, as in knowing what the various body parts are called on a canine, and then delve into more specific articles and books while you grow with your puppy or dog. The more you know the more you can be a partner in your dogs health care. You will be living with your dog 24/7, you can offer great information to a health care professional if you are observant, and have some knowledge behind you.
  2. You don’t get a second chance to make a first impression – If you are starting with a puppy, BEFORE you make an appointment, check out websites, and call various clinics that match your philosophy on health care. Get a feel for what is available.  Ask questions that are important to you in regards to vaccinations, well checks, surgeries, alternative care, etc. Make sure to ask about availability, hours and after hours. If it is important to you, ask for a reference or two from other puppy clients. Not all professionals that work with dogs are good with puppies. You WANT a health care professional that knows how to work with puppies, gets on the floor, allows a puppy to enjoy their visits, has interesting things in the room to investigate, and is kind and gentle! If a puppy is uncomfortable and uncertain about strangers, a good puppy professional will make a visit short, successful, and stress free. It isn’t uncommon for a good puppy professional to meet you and your puppy outside in a neutral space. These initial visits are critical to how your growing puppy will view their health care professionals. If your looking at a seventeen year life span, it would be pretty cool to have those years be as stress free as possible.
  3. You Have Some Time – Handle, Handle, Handle – The day you get your puppy or dog, handle them. Sit on the floor and get them use to being touched with kind and considerate hands in a semi exam fashion. Their first time being handled should not be in an office/clinic setting, you need to prepare. Your puppy or dog can be laying down or standing. Start after some nice exercise when the edge has been taken off. Give your puppy or dog something nice to chew on like a raw bone or bully stick. Then start your handling exam; touch the muzzle area, the ears, down the neck and the front of the chest, move down the foreleg and pastern, touch the toes and/or pads of each forefoot, cup your hand under the brisket and move to the belly, move down the stifle all the way to the hind foot, handle the hind feet and toes/pads, move down the back to the base of the tail, cup your hands around the genital area (especially if you plan on keeping your male puppy intact past sexual maturity). Do this a couple of times a day, no more than 30 seconds to 1 minute. Longer duration handling happens over time.
  4. Arriving and Having a Plan – It’s always best when arriving at a health care office to leave your dog in your car while you go and check in. You have no idea who is in the waiting room, what is going on inside, or if there is a scared dog yelping in one of the exam rooms (that for sure causes stress to a dog entering a facility). Go in, check in, see if they need anything from you, ask if they will be needing a urine or fecal sample (easiest right out of the car when they sniff before entering the facility). When a room is ready, then go and get your dog. Always have your dog on a leash when exiting your car at a health care facility (I know this sounds so obvious , but you might be surprised!). Have some high value rewards with you (HIGH), and potty bags. If your dog needs a ‘place’ to feel comfortable and lay down, bring a bath mat for them to lay on in the exam room. Be prepared.
  5. Space the Final Frontier – If you have a dog that is reactive or has opinions with other dogs or people, please remind the clinic when you arrive and check in. They will be most appreciative, and make sure to clear the area so everyone is comfortable and safe when you enter. Never feel guilty asking for space, safety is important, and so is lowering everyone’s stress levels.
  6. Be A List Keeper and a Question Asker – Have your questions and/or concerns written down on a list to discuss with your dogs health care provider. It’s easy to forget a thought when you are ‘in the moment’ and managing your dog in a new environment.
  7. Listen for an Answer – Make sure that your questions are answered, and that you have a better understanding of what you wanted to know. Please write down anything specific so you make sure you have that information for your reference. A health care professional should not dismiss your questions, make you feel uncomfortable for asking them, or demean you in anyway. You are your dogs advocate and their voice in the human world, speak up and ask!
  8. Out of the Blue - If something needs to be done to your dog, that your dog is either uncomfortable with, or has not been prepared for, ask your health care professional for details on what needs to be done (nail trimming, eye drops, ear drops, handling of genitals, muzzle use, standing for exam, standing in warm water, etc), and then reschedule for a week or two down the road (as long as it is nothing critical where time is of the essence). Go home and practice this type of handling, desensitize and condition your dog. Small tiny steps everyday. If you teach your dog what is going to be done, then you are not catching them off guard, and in turn are building a very cool life skill! You should seriously reconsider using any health care provider that wants to force your dog, man handle, strap down, or hobble for a procedure that is not critical, and where you could have the opportunity to condition.
  9. Should I Stay or Should I Go Now? – Know if you want to take part in handling your dog while at a clinic or office. You need to know your comfort level and your dogs comfort level with this. Ask your health care professional to teach you good handling in the office so you can participate if this is your choice. For basics like blood draws, nail clipping, etc, decide if you want to learn more. That is an owners choice. If your dog needs to go into another room, decide if you want to stay or go, that again is your choice and should be discussed with your health care professional. Observing what is being done can help you prepare your dog through out their lives. If you don’t see what happened and your dog has a bad experience, than you will live with reconditioning for a very long time.
  10. Leaving and Having a Plan – After your dogs exam or procedure, take them outside on leash, allow them to potty again, and then load them in your car. THEN go back inside and pay, reschedule, or do what you need to do on the office/business side of things. Please don’t make your dog hang with you at the desk/reception area.
  11. No Visiting – When in a clinic setting, it’s best to not let your dog visit, coming or going. You don’t know if the other dog is feeling good or not, so taking the path of least resistance is best, and it’s simply polite.
  12. Records and Second Opinions – Whenever you have a visit with your dog, always get an updated copy of your dogs records. Have your dogs health files with you in case you want a second opinion, or you are already thinking of changing to a new health care provider. It is your right to have this information, please never feel guilty or bashful for asking.

Nancy, here is to happy and healthy living!

is desexing the answer, or the question?

Sometimes we can be so influenced by what we see, hear, or experience on a regular basis, that we forget there are other options. Or at the very least, possibilities.

I recently had a very cool conversation with my friend Lisa from Australia, in regards to the desexing of competition dogs. We both own intact males so we talk sex sometimes ;-) If you desex a male dog would you have a more focused dog, or does it boil down to more training, more exposure to new and different, and a strong handler/dog relationship? If you have a problem during competition is it because of the testosterone driving the male, or is it training? Is desexing even necessary if there is no health issue? If you do a great job with your intact male dog in regards to socializing, exposure, training, and the relationship, how can you be sure others have done the same, and your male will be safe?

Then I received a reply to my post Sex and the Male Dog from one of my blogging friends in Norway, Bente Haarstad. She mentioned that it is illegal to spay/neuter a dog in Norway. W-w-w-w-haaaat?!

In a nation such as America, that is cramming stray and unwanted dogs into every available rescue/shelter, and then euthanizing millions more each year, Norway’s law might make you gasp, or even throw a tantrum! But only at first glance. Their laws make sense, and would make any dog person from America to Australia envious. Respect and relationship seem to be the foundation.

In America it really isn’t IF you are going to spay/neuter, but rather when. While rescues would like to see every dog desexed yesterday because of over population, we are known worldwide as a heavy desexing country, believe it or not. Whether you want the testosterone in your dog longer for healthier growth plates and joints, or buy into the new movement Fix at Four, there are always conversations on desexing, always.

Are we desexing because of our dog over population problem, or to make things easier for the owner? Let’s be super honest about that one!

Norway does not have an over population problem when it comes to dogs. There are rarely strays, if ever. People use leashes and restraints when required. The culture in Norway is such that when you get a dog, you are expected to spend time training and building a relationship with your dog (that is so refreshing!). Spay/Neuter is a case by case basis, based on health, utility, or behavioral concerns.

Is Norway a perfect Utopia for dogs and their owners? I don’t know I don’t live there, but it sounds pretty awesome! In an article by Science Nordic some veterinarians have mentioned that they treat dog to dog bites more often than what they have seen in the United States. Growling, barking, or difficult to walk in public are other problems mentioned. In reality, all Utopian thoughts set aside, I would imagine there are people who don’t follow through with training, don’t understand dogs, or have been abusive,  just like any place else in the world. And for sure, dogs that don’t have great temperaments to begin with? Norway we would love to hear from you!

So here is some really cool information that I think we can all agree is pretty crazy awesome!

The Norwegian Animal Welfare Act (NFSA) makes it clear that surgical procedures are not to be used to adapt animals to the needs of humans, unless strictly necessary. Woop! This means you come at the relationship together and work at it together.This, in and of itself, makes me smile.

They also state that neutering is not a substitute for training. Now if you are reading this and are from America, or a desexing heavy country, be honest and raise your hand if you have neutered because of an unwanted behavior. Here is my hand being raised, I have done that in the past. And it isn’t uncommon.

The NFSA, a government agency, did relax some of it’s spay/neuter laws from what I have recently read. Starting in this year, 2012, they will permit neutering if it helps give a dog a justifiable quality of life, including social contact with other dogs.

As for me, I like what Norway has to say, so does Story! From how I am understanding things, it isn’t just about desexing, it’s about quality of life, and responsibility to another living being, woop! I like that there are no stray animals, and that the culture expects dog owners to be responsible. This expectation being socially acceptable is worth gold in my world. I love that dogs are dogs are dogs, unless there is a problem that needs medical assistance.

I for one have learned something new, which is always a good thing.

Perhaps we can start shifting to higher expectations of dog owners and their responsibility? Perhaps we can truly out law puppy mills, mass breeders, and kennels with twenty breeding pairs to help curb over population? Perhaps we can look at dogs as perfect from the day they are born and not medically alter them? Perhaps we can all find more value in relationship, teaching, and the journey together?

Nancy, who appreciates and loves her neutered and intact male dogs!

when seniors have dogs – preparing your dog for the future

This article received the DWAA Maxwell Medallion Award, February 2013!

You know, the very first book I wrote was called ‘The Old Woman and her Dog’. That was forty-one years ago. I’m not sure if writing that story shaped my life or was a premonition of things to come.

In brief, she was an old woman who didn’t like anyone and was fairly cranky. She saw a puppy in a window, bought the puppy and fell in love. This puppy grew into a dog and the two were devoted to each other. The old woman became sick and the dog saddened by this. The little neighbor girl came over to help and all three became the best of friends, then the woman died and the dog wandered off. The End.

So strange how in my adult life, and career working with people and their dogs, this scenario, more or less, is very real.

When seniors have dogs its super important for the entire family to be involved in the care and well-being of the dog. Many times, the dog will out live their owner, and that is when things can go very wrong if they weren’t right to begin with.

The wish is for seniors and their dogs to live a long, healthy, and prosperous life together. But preparedness is important.

Socializing, training, potty training, and appropriate exercise are still at the top of the list for dogs living with seniors. If a senior needs to move into an assisted living and/or nursing home, it can be very stressful for the dog if they did not receive good socialization and training to begin with. Family and even extended family need to be part of the bigger picture to ensure that all is going well.

A responsible and caring family member should be appointed as the co-guardian of the dog. Assisting with socialization, training classes, food/feeding, veterinary visits, when needed. They should also agree to step in and care for the dog full time should that need ever arise.

Here is my cautionary story. I keep this memory front and center in my mind when working with families, their senior parents, and a very loved dog. I have worked with countless families over the years that have to face these tough choices. I no longer accept clients who are unwilling to step in and help their senior relatives, that has become my first question.

I received a call from an older gentleman, he needed help exercising his dog. His wife had a stroke and was now in assisted living, and he had Parkinson’s but was still living at home. We made an appointment.  He instructed me to not touch his dog because he would bite, and bite hard. He drew blood weekly on his friends and no person wanted to come and help him any longer. Also, when out walking keep him away from other dogs, he has never met a dog and wasn’t sure what would happen.

When we started chatting I found out that his dog was four years old, had never been out of the home or yard area, never been to a training class, and never socialized to anyone except the owner and his wife.

This little dog and I became friendly, went for walks/runs a few times a week, I was able to handle him over time, brush him and hand feed him. We worked on tricks they could do together. We were moving forward an ounce at a time, and there were lots of smiles.

Two months later this very kind gentleman had to move into assisted living as well. This little dog was going to be moving with him, so I set up a pet walker and my husband agreed to run with this dog three days a week.

He was so ill equipped to deal with life outside of his home that it went to hell in a hand basket very quickly. He wouldn’t let nurses into the room, would bite anyone that went near the wife, would bark out the window, and started to have accidents in the room (they were on the third floor).

They were told they had to get rid of him. The wife looked at me and said, ” it wasn’t supposed to play out this way. We weren’t supposed to be here just yet. We got him to grow old with us, spend time in our garden, and snuggle at night. We love him and don’t want to see him go. He is our dream”.

Their children were contacted and both said NO. They were financially able to not only take this little very loved dog of their parents, but to hire a trainer, dog walker and pet sitter full time to help out. Still the answer was no. They even refused to help with finding a suitable home for him, pay for transport, or temporary care.

I found a national breed specific rescue that was reputable, and we talked for almost a week. They found one of their foster families that would be happy to take him, and keep him since he had a bite history. I was very specific about care and his history. There would be no more surprises.

After tears and heart ache when we went to pick this little guy up, the wife had a seizure from the trauma of her dog going away and never being able to see him again. This older gentleman said, “I trust you and I am sorry I had to put this on you”. That was the last time we talked.

My husband and this little dog drove ten hours, stopped for hiking and runs along the way, and arrived at the foster families home. He went over his care, needs and special considerations with the new experienced foster family. They reassured him that they understood and had worked with dogs like this before and would give him a good life. My husband told them he would drive up and get him if it wasn’t the right fit.

I called three days later to check up and see how he was doing. They had euthanized him because he was too much for them.

I cried for a week straight and could barely stand on my own two feet. My husband was in such disbelief at the tragic end to this little dogs life and was inconsolable for days.

Every dog that I have had the pleasure to work with and who has allowed me into their space, and their life, means something to me. Some crawl into my heart a bit deeper than others, but it’s a connection that is undeniable.

Be prepared to help, love and care take when the time comes…

Nancy

hiking tip #5 – wilderness first aid

The best first aid tip I ever received was, “be prepared & prevent accidents with good choices”. And it should be just that simple.

If you’re an avid hiker it’s a good idea to take a Wilderness First Aid course. So far my experience has been that they are all really fun, have great instructors, and there’s always something new to learn. Usually a two day course, and worth it! The two companies that offer the most extensive courses are AERIE and WMI NOLS.

When hiking with your dog, there are additional considerations when it comes to first aid. If some of the information below seems like ‘a lot’, then truly you should enroll in a wilderness first aid course. This is minimal!

tip #5

  1. Know who you are hiking with, and let them know you. Any health considerations or medications you carry should be shared, if it is something that could come up on a hike (low blood sugar, high blood sugar, seizure, severe allergies, etc). If you or a friend carries an EPI pen please share the location in the pack where it will be carried. Surprisingly, this is not uncommon. 90% of all of our clients carried one on hikes, peanut and stinging insects were the two most common reasons.
  2. If you are hiking alone with your dog always leave a note at home, or text a friend and let them know where you will be hiking that day, and approximate time of return
  3. Check the weather before leaving
  4. Have a pack that is prepared for your hike, for you and your dog
  5. Enough water for the day – preventing dehydration is a great first aid tip!
  6. Know your dogs health inside and out. When hiking with your dog mobility is the key.
  7. Before you ever leave the house, check your dogs paw pads. How are they? Are there any weather splits, slices, cuts? If so, tend to those for a couple of days, at least, before you hit the trail. PAW HEALTH translates to a safe and enjoyable hiking adventure. If you are not paying attention to your dogs paw health, it could get you into a situation in the back country that could put both of you at risk. Mobility!
  8. Check your shoes, are the right for your feet? Blister free is the key!
  9. Carry a small first aid kit in your pack, even if you are going for a short 1 hour hike.
  10. Make sure the surface of the trail is compatible with your dogs paws. Sharp razor edge scree is not dog friendly, nor is 106 degree sand trails. Know what they will be walking on.
  11. If anyone or any dog gets injured, no matter how minor, ALL DOGS go on leash. There should not be dogs milling about when tending to yourself, another hiker or dog. This is good management.
  12. If a dog is injured and truly in pain and thrashing, please use your dogs leash and create a half hitch around the dogs muzzle to prevent any bites. The worst injuries I have seen when out hiking are caused by lack of management. Dogs running or chasing a mountain biker and getting kicked, dogs running after a skier and getting a ski pole in the face, dogs chasing wildlife and getting the snot beat out of them or worse yet never returning. Train and have a plan before you go, almost all big accidents like these are avoidable.
  13. If there is an injury to person or dog, please think in terms of – stabilize and get out. Do not try to do a surgical procedure, chop down trees to make a splint, stitch a wound (especially on a dog!), etc. There is no stay and play when an injury occurs, even if you’re 10 minutes from the peak or your personal goal. Be responsible and do the right thing for you and your dog.
  14. If your dog is injured to the point of limited mobility, and too big for you to carry, DO NOT leave them tied up on the trail and go get help, DO NOT do this. You are making them bait for all animals in the area. Use your cell phone, blow on your whistle, send a friend for help.
  15. The most common injuries to hikers and dogs tend to be blisters, small cuts, stinging insects, sun burn, and frost nipped paws, tips of ears, nose and fingers.

Items for basic first aid kit

  • kit should be in something small and water tight, zip lock bags are great
  • small scissors
  • bandana (multi use)
  • two large band-aids
  • 4 x the amount of Benadryl you would ever need for you and your dog. Check with your veterinary and your doctor for the correct dosing for you and your dog. Any insect sting, allergic reaction, or snake bite, get Benadryl on board and keep everyone breathing.
  • Covex, Vet Wrap, PowerFlex, Pro Wrap – this is better than duct tape in the back country. Carry a full roll. You can find this at any ranch/home store in the equine section. (multi use)
  • whistle – essential to call attention to your location
  • brightly colored rain poncho (multi use and super light weight)
  • mole skin for blister

Nancy,

note – I am a huge fan of prevention and good choices. In over thirty years hiking around the world, half of those with my dogs, we have never had a serious injury. Bee stings and blisters, and cold fingers have been the worst of it, and I would like to keep it that way!

FOOD

Accurate information is something that’s important to me, especially when it comes to nutrition and behavior. All to often I work with people that were given advice by a well meaning person at a dog park, a colleague, or hearsay during a card game. This type of advice is only good if you can double check the information with varied sources, and investigate that possibility and then double check sources again. You don’t want to experiment with your dog when it comes to nutrition or behavior.

I find myself talking about food choices for our dogs about twice maybe three times a day, five days a week. I’m pretty sure this is the most common conversation that I have on a consistent basis with clients, friends and family. Here are the most common questions/statements and my answers with supporting links to articles and books.

Q: I’m vegan and I want my dog to be vegan, is this possible?
A: There is growing popularity and information regarding vegan diets for dogs. Alicia Silverstone’s book The Kind Diet has increased the desire for people who have chosen a vegan life style for themselves to also choose this for their dogs. While her book is wonderful, and the recipes for humans yummy great, it lacks information on appropriate nutrition for dogs and/or the implications of feeding a grain and vegetable diet to a predator and opportunistic scavenger. The book suggests Dr. Harvey’s vegetarian dog diet, and states that our dogs don’t really need meat anymore because they are more sedentary animals. Dr. Harvey’s does sell other products and suggests adding a ‘protein source’. James O’Heare’s book Vegan Dogs makes a great argument for switching our dogs to a non meat sourced diet. There is a website to support this called Vegan Dog Nutrition Association. However, it clearly states that this is Compassionate Nutrition, it never states that it is Optimal Nutrition, nor does it go into health issues a dog may face if they aren’t getting the appropriate amount of meat sourced protein in their diet, such as muscle wasting.  Vegan and vegetarian lifestyles for humans are for the most part by choice, for either health benefits, religion or ethical reasons. Current research has created mounds of empirical data to support that a biologically appropriate diet for humans is largely plant based ( variety of fruits and vegetables), with some whole grains and nuts, and very little meat, but some. In contrast, a biologically appropriate diet for a canines, and there is also mounds of empirical data to support this, is roughly; 50 – 60% meat (varied), 30% meat with crushed bone (varied), 10% organ meat, 5% plant (fruit and vegetable with low sugar content). Canines cannot digest and/or use; corn, wheat or soy.

The two books written by veterinarians that have an emphasis in canine nutritional sciences, that every dog owner should have are Raw Meaty Bones by Dr. Tom Lonsdale and Natural Health by Dr. Pitcairn.

While it is admirable for humans to live on a biologically appropriate human diet, and healthier too, I do not feel that it’s justified to impose those choices on another species that just happens to be a carnivore/opportunistic scavenger.  Making biologically appropriate choices needs to be appropriate choices for each species. Ethical choices for a certain human life style should not be part of choosing a dogs diet, a dog owner needs to be very honest about the animal they own and intend to feed, and offer optimal nutrition for optimal health.

Q: What exactly is a raw diet? I hear this term and I wouldn’t even know where to start.
A: A raw food diet is sometimes referred to as a biologically appropriate raw food diet. Dr. Billinghurst coined this term many years ago. It is using not only appropriate protein sources for a canine (which is a predator and opportunistic scavenger), but also using it in an minimally altered state, raw. A dogs digestive system is designed differently from ours.From their teeth, jaws and saliva to the stomach and intestinal tract. Because your dogs digestive tract is relatively short and simple they are unable to digest large amounts of grain and fiber. It simply passes through and creates more waste.  A raw diet is the appropriate diet for the ripping, grabbing and gnawing off meat, slow digestion in the stomach and a speedy trip through the intestinal area. Commercial kibbles are almost the opposite.

Is feeding a raw food diet easy? It depends on how you go about it. We have been feeding raw in our house for over eight years. We tend to rotate in some kibble because it is convenient during some of the busier work days, some home cooked because I enjoy cooking for my family which also includes my dogs, but my dogs overall diet is around 80-85% raw. We started with pre mixed raw food patties that were frozen. It seemed to be the best choice to start with as someone in the know was making it for me. Darwins Pet and B.A.R.F. are the two that we used until we were ready to make our own. The two books that helped me with making our own appropriate diet were Monica Segal’s K9 Kitchen and Dr. Tom Lonsdale’s Raw Meaty Bones. I also consult and buy product from Big Sky Raw Four Paws.

Q: What is Kibble?
A: Americans spent over $8.5 billion dollars on dog kibble in 2007, I feel confident in saying the numbers are much higher today! What is kibble and where did it come from? After all there is no such thing as a kibble tree, or planting kibble seeds to grow your own. The first commercial dog food was a biscuit product introduced in England about 1860. Although the site was overseas, the ingenuity was Yankee. James Spratt, an electrician from Ohio, was in London trying to sell lightning rods. He saw dogs being fed left-over ship’s biscuits and decided he could do better with a preparation of wheat meals, vegetables, beetroot, and meat. While the formulation was based more on guesswork than science, it was clearly a step forward, for Spratt’s company thrived selling food to English country gentlemen for sporting dogs. About 1890, Spratt’s formula and production were taken over by a public company and began a U.S. operation. The Pet Food Industry in America was born. Several U.S. firms entered the market with their own formulations of fortified biscuits and dry kibble based on limited nutritional knowledge of the day. Canned horse meat for dog food was introduced in the United States after World War I. In the 1930s, canned cat food and dry meat-meal dog foods were introduced. The 1950s saw the introduction of dry expanded type pet foods. The 60s were marked with great diversification in the types of food available to the pet owner. Since 1958, the Pet Food Institute has been the voice of U.S. pet food manufacturers. PFI is the industry’s public education and media relations resource, representative before the U.S. Congress and state and federal agencies, organizer of seminars and educational programs, and liaison with other organizations. PFI represents the companies that make 98 percent of all dog and cat food in the U.S. marketplace. Commercial dog food was developed for convenience not better nutrition. Today’s standards are trying to change that, but it takes educating the consumer on appropriate nutrition.

NOTE – some of today’s most popular kibble brand’s are the least nutritious for our dogs, for all intended purposes they are crap. Fillers, by products, dye, preservatives, additives… etc. No more nutritious than us living off of a giant bag of Cheetos.  Pretty packaging that  promises great nutritional advances, claims of veterinarians using this for their own dogs, and the almighty American Dog Owners #1 choice. Great advertising and high end marketing can sway the way you feel about a product. Learn how to read the dog food label, learn how to ask questions at retail outlets.

  1. If a piece of your dogs food is day glow yellow or fluorescent orange you should reconsider the food you are feeding your dog.
  2. If there is corn, wheat or soy in the first five ingredients, please consider a new food choice.
  3. Look for the carcass name. If a label says ‘animal by product’ you have no guarantee what animal, where it came from, or the health of the animal before it became dog food.
  4. Call the 1-800 number on the bag, ask about sourcing. Where did the products come from? Be specific. If any products were sourced from China, change food today. Orijen takes pride in sourcing no further than 500 miles from their manufacturing plant.
  5. I believe this trend will continue with other companies. Petcurean offers information on their ingredients down to government certification, protein sources, and how to choose a food based on the age and energy level of your dog.
  6. If your questions cannot be answered adequately over the phone, change food.

S: I don’t want my dog to ever have human food. If they do they might beg all of the time
A: If we go by biologically appropriate standards, than most of what humans are currently eating is actually dog food. Humans diet should be plant based with a variety of fruits and vegetables, some whole grains and nuts and a little bit of meat. Canine diet is almost 80% meat based with very little fruit and vegetable and some organ meat and bone. Most of what is on the planet could be considered ‘food’ in regards to what is growing (plant or fruit), and prey animals (meat, organs and bone). Kibble is not ‘dog food’, it is a man made product for convenience in feeding a dog, but would not fit under biologically appropriate. After all dogs in the wild are not gathering crazy amounts of ingredients they wouldn’t normally eat, mixing them, baking them, over processing them and then sitting down to eat.

I think though that this question stems from dog owner’s fear that dogs will start begging from the table. If you do not feed your dog form the table or the counter and there is structure in the home, there is no reason for begging. Permissive households that lack some management and structure tend to have problems with begging and counter surfing whether they are feeding store bought kibble/ treats, verses pieces of real meat.

My dogs are on a rocking valuable diet. A variety of raw meats, raw meaty bones, and a small amount of veggies and fruit. For rewards while training I tend to use cooked chicken, beef, fish or buffalo. I have never had a begging problem or a dog that felt entitled when I sat at the table or was preparing food at the counter. Rewards are used for specific reasons, not just for showing up to the party so to speak. We all live on the same planet, breath the same air, share the same water, I think we are bound to also share the same food sources or at least an overlap to some degree. In saying that there are some foods that humans can eat that will make a dog very sick and/or cause death. This should always be a consideration when preparing a homemade diet.

Known Food Toxins To Dogs: note – not all dogs will react to these ingredients, however they have been known to be toxic, cause death, extreme illness, and/or cause disagreeable reactions in many dogs. Sick is never good if it can be avoided, but there are all levels of sick.

  1. Apple, Almond, Apricot, Peach, Wild Cherries, Plum, Balsam Pear, Prunes and similar fruit: Diarrhea, vomiting, abdominal pain, (Stem, Seeds and Leaves) The seeds of most fruits contain cyanide, which is poisonous to dogs as well as humans.
  2. Avocados: The fruit, pit and plant are all toxic. They can cause difficulty breathing and fluid accumulation in the chest, abdomen and heart can cause death.
  3. Broccoli: reported to be pretty potent gastrointestinal irritant
  4. Cherry: rapid breathing, shock, mouth inflammation, heart rate increase
  5. Chocolate: seizures, coma, hyperactivity, rapid heart beat, tremors, death. Bakers chocolate is the most dangerous. A dog can consume milk chocolate and appear to be fine because it is not as concentrated but is still very dangerous.
  6. Cocoa Mulch: (used as garden compost )contain potentially toxic quantities of Theo bromine, a xanthine compound similar in effects to caffeine and theophylline. It is lethal to dogs and cats. A new problem and is now causing a lot of deaths.
  7. Cooked Bones: uncooked bones should be safe but if they are cooked you should refrain because they deteriorate and easily splinter. Can cause extensive damage to internal organs and passage ways, many times resulting in death.
  8. Macadamia nuts: cause locomotory difficulties. Dogs develop a tremor of the skeletal muscles, and weakness or paralysis of the hindquarters. Affected dogs are often unable to rise and are distressed, usually panting…. while painful, seems to be of short duration.
  9. Mushrooms: acute gastric effects, liver and kidney damage, abdominal pain, nausea, salivation, vomiting
  10. Nutmeg: tremors, seizures and death
  11. Tobacco: nausea, salivation, vomiting, tachycardia (rapid heartbeat)
  12. Onion: (cats are more sensitive), gastrointestinal upset, hemolytic anemia, heinz body anemia, hemogloinria, destroys red blood cells
  13. Grapes, Raisins, Prunes: kidney failure, as little as a single serving of grapes or raisins can kill a dog. It takes anywhere from 9 oz to 2 lbs of grapes and raisins (between .041 and 1.1 oz/kg of body weight), to cause severe vomiting and diarrhea, and possible kidney failure
  14. Salt: excessive intake can cause kidney problems
  15. Raw Eggs:  many people feed raw eggs to their dogs but keep in mind that they can contain salmonella. Dogs do have a higher tolerance against salmonella poisoning but are not immune and have been reported to get it from uncooked eggs.
  16. Potato peelings and green looking potatoes
  17. Rhubarb leaves
  18. Moldy/spoiled foods
  19. Alcohol
  20. Yeast dough
  21. Coffee grounds, beans & tea (caffeine)
  22. Hops (used in home brewing)
  23. Tomato leaves & stems (green parts)
  24. Cigarettes, tobacco, cigars

Q:A low/restricted protein diet was recommended for my dog.  Her diet is only 2-4% protein now, but I have noticed that she is acting differently and I am having concerns. Could low protein be causing this behavioral change?
A: When working through acute or chronic health issues with your dog you want to work with your veterinarian for the best possible solution. Once your dog is out of a critical situation and is stable, you have time to investigate the best possible choices. Educating yourself is always helpful as you become an asset in your dogs overall health care. All too often I work with dogs that have serious behavioral problems that began after a major health crisis. Some are acute some are chronic. When I review a dogs diet, it shocks me every time to see that a dog has been put on protein restriction, sometimes as low as 4% (17% is considered low protein by the way). And let me state, it is not really the protein but rather the quality of the protein (amino acids) source and the level of high digestibility or the lack thereof that is shocking to me. Age, overall health, organ health are all factors in diet recommendations. So what are the protein requirements of a dog? According to Dr.’s Foster & Smith they are the building blocks to animal nutrition. Dr. Kevin Bovee has written a great article on the Mythology of Protein Restriction. He states that protein restriction has been widely accepted for over four decades in the veterinary field, but in recent years there have been several studies that have proven otherwise. Dr. Ian Robinson has written a great paper Can Diet Effect Behavior  and it has a paragraph in regards to low protein and it’s behavioral side effects.

I am the owner of four dogs, all varying life stages, and one that had acute renal failure two years ago. She was on a rotation diet of kibble, home cooked and raw. The three veterinarians that I consulted with, that specialize in nutrition, all suggested to up the raw food diet and change one of the meat sources I was using, and minimize the kibble and home cooked. We never restricted her protein, in fact we upped it just a bit. She is going to be 9 years old this summer, is still competing in agility at the Elite level and running as fast as ever, and her blood work comes back healthy and with in the appropriate range every six months. I am grateful that I had the time to seek out specialists in the nutrition field to help me formulate a plan to encourage and support good health, not restrict it.

Q: My veterinarian recommended the bag of dog food that they sell in their office, it has to be the best, right?
A: If you are buying food from a retailer, keep in mind their job is to sell you product not to prevent you from buying it. If your veterinarian is carrying products of any kind it falls under retail services. Be a smart consumer and investigate the food choices before you buy. Some veterinary offices have biologically appropriate nutritional options for sale, others do not. It is up to the consumer to make smart choices. Learn to read the dog food label, it does take some knowledge and I have found this website to be very helpful, Organic Pet Digest. What you will learn is that your dog isn’t always getting what you think they might be getting do to terminology or how ingredients are listed. You can also visit Dog Food Analysis to check on dog food reviews and what are the best options on the market for the year.

S: Raw dog food is dangerous and dogs who eat raw food will shed  E. Coli bacteria in their stools.
A: Dogs are designed to consume and digest a variety of food choices, raw meat being one of them. The qualifier would be, a healthy dog with no underlying health concerns. The one raw meat that is not recommended for dogs is raw salmon. Most humans would get terribly sick from eating raw meat, or under cooked meat, we see these stories in the paper all of the time. I think this would be a topic for an entire book really because it goes back to our food chain and what animals are being fed and how it changes the structure of what we then eat (Mad Cow Disease for starters, and corn being fed to cattle promoting E. Coli bacteria). But I am keeping this simple. There is a bit of risk with anything we put into our mouths, I don’t feel it is any less for our dogs. When assessing risk or nutritional sources, get good information. In studies that test fecal matter of dogs that have been on a raw diet,  kibble or home cooked, they found pathogens in almost all fecal samples, including salmonella and e. coli. It wasn’t exclusive to raw fed dogs.

Cheers,  Nancy

originally posted April 14, 2011